October 24, 2012

Road Trip: Belgium

In Belgium, our main point of stay was just outside of Brussels. As we are familiar from a previous post, Intro to Brussels, we can assume that it was perhaps not my favorite piece of the planet.

Grand Place
   To a gastronomic guru, the thought of a city focused on beer and chocolate and me with nothing but time on my hands seemed like it could be the best week ever. In short, the restaurants of Brussels have sold their soul. There is a quaint street of restaurants outside of Grand Place, avoid that street like the plague. Each restaurant has the same menu, the same horridly sad food photography and salesmen grabbing you off of the sidewalk guilting you into eating at their restaurant. We succumbed to the pressure.

   For well over a hundred dollars, we received a meal in which mediocre would be a dashing compliment. Steamed mussels are the prized option on every menu. But selling a dish prepared with no heart, no pride and lacking enthusiasm but charging for it very enthusiastically is just sad. You're best off sticking to the frites (french fries) and waffle stands. Even though those are over priced as well who's night has ever been ruined because they had fries and waffles for dinner?

   Wandering in and out of the chocolate shops is of course a pleasant way to pass time. And they give samples... There was also a whimsical book shop with an upper level of children's books, of course in French, which I think adds to the whimsy of the books. Beatrix Potter in French is even more perfect than it was to me previously.

   If you are a comic fanatic, the Museum of Original Figurines is one of the more affordable things to visit in Brussels. Admission is 6.50 Euro and the theme changes occasionally (it has a technical term but I'm not up on my museum jargon..). Although I wasn't familiar with many of the comics of focus, I enjoyed the visit enough. What had my heart was the Smurf exhibit at the beginning (the Smurfs came to life by a Belgium cartoonist). The Smurfs are the best. Period.

Moof
   In all respect, I did somehow fail to attend the Belgian Brewer's Museum in which you receive a beer along with your 5 Euro entrance as well as the Museum of Cocoa and Chocolate (5 Euro). Perhaps those would have changed my mind.

   The best thing you can do is explore Belgium with minimal time in Brussels. My favorite day was our mother/daughter train trip to Bruges. I was the mom but it would have been equally more fun if I was the daughter. Hint, hint mom...

Church of Our Lady
   When arriving into the city, the allure of the Church of Our Lady tower takes your breath. At 122.3 meters tall, it is the second tallest brickwork tower in the world.

   Even the quaint modesty of the homes along the streets of Bruges takes your heart. This city is very familiar to Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany. It has the same comfortable feel. And when I stumbled upon a Christmas ornament shop from Rothenburg, I knew that even Rothenburg was aware of this sister city.


   Instead of a wall and gates around the city, Bruges is surrounded by canals giving it a very romantic feel. I would love to return to this city, perhaps even with my husband (he was busy at work this day..). And next time I would love to do the boat tour.


   I would recommend arriving to Bruges as early as you can, the streets crowd fast and continued to crowd even more as the day went on. When I arrived, there was a farmer's market at the Markt in the early part of the day. The exterior perimeter was made up of various food trucks. Lottie and I shared a rotisserie chicken and miniature corn cakes. With no silverware and no napkins, we dug in guiltlessly. It was sinful indulgence and I advise you to do the same.

   Before we part, food culture is important to Belgium. So I would be doing an utmost injustice by not sharing with you my traditional dinner. We stumbled upon a great restaurant in the town of Zaventem on the outskirts of Brussels. A place for the the locals in a town of locals, it was superb. In Belgium frites are a staple and they are enjoyed with mayonnaise. Who in the world decided ketchup was appropriate when mayonnaise was an option? You will notice their mayo has an herb vinegar to the base, it rather did impart a nice dimension, but darned if I can find a bottle of it here in Poland.


   For dinner I ordered the classic Rundsstoofvlees - beef pieces in a Belgian Ale gravy. Divine. Troy had the Koninginnehapge - similar to chicken pot pie filling over a puff pastry biscuit. Nice, but mine stole the show. For dessert, pannenkoeken - a large crepe with jam. Lovely with a cappaccino.

Rundsstoofvlees
   A little history lesson: back hundreds of years ago upon the death of Belgium's ruler, Charlemagne, fights among his two grandsons after his death left the country divided into two regions. Therefore, the northern region speaks Flemish and is French speaking in the south.

   Disclaimer: If Brussels has always been on your bucket list, I do not want to detour you from visiting the city. And I think anyone could enjoy a day spent there. But if you do go, I enjoy being told that I'm right...

2 comments:

  1. Tina, I am so jealous, yet profoundly happy that you and the Lotte' are countinuing your explorations even tho The Dad has to work.
    An aquaintance asked me to tell you what just might be a good bilingual experience for Lottie..she suggested a day care type of day where they speak only Polish and then when she is back with family, she speaks English. This lady is a speach therapist and says it's a wonderful way to immerse into a language.

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  2. Much fun reading! I certainly take you up on your Bruges offer!! Still lovin' the photos!

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